I try to make my furniture unique.  One way is to incorporate unique molding designs.  I try to ferret out different companies that make unusual trim but sometimes the most fun comes from making my own.  A lot of times I use a combination of molding profiles to create something more complex.  It takes a little time and a willingness to just sit, take the time, and play.  I keep a box of scraps and end cuts of things that I have done and then just try them in differing combinations to see what I can come up with. 

Sometimes it might be just a simple pattern repeated or turned upside down that will create a spark.  I've tried also to use large molding elements but scale them down. A pediment for over a door turns into a eye catching idea for a picture frame. etc.....

Just using router bits alone you can come up with countless imaginative ideas.  If you keep a box of "idea seeds" as I do, then you won't have to get your router out to try new ideas, just use your "puzzle" box.

I took some pictures of some of the "scap" piece in combination to show their new life.
Some of the things you try will not work out and others may surprise you.  All the things on this table I thought were  good enough to use in various projects.  It has been standard practice to "build up" larger moldings using stock elements.  Crown moldings are often done this way on higher ceilings which require larger elements because of the height of the room.

One such molding you can see I made up from five pieces.  The central piece is a piece of 4" cherry cove molding which looked skimpy atop an office with ten foot ceilings.  Now it looks grand and in proportion to the height of the room.  However, it did necessitate going around the room three times to add the pieces.  Here are the pictures...........enjoy... All these show two or more pieces in combination.

 

Here is an example of what homeowners can do to brighten a dull spot in their home. With a little help from EG Wood, this refrigerator corner is now useful and definitely brighter with the new lighting system. Here are before and after pictures.

 

 

 

     First the refrigerator was given a better home.  The exposed side was covered with nice harwood veneer to match the surrounding wood. 
     The top of the refrigerator is always a catch-all spot for "things" that can't be easily fetched unless husband gets a ladder.  So, a display shelf was the choice, created with added lighting to show off some better pieces of kitchen ware that may only be used occasionally. 
     The final step was to create a cabinet worthy of that corner.  Instead of a flimsy roll cart, a more permanent cabinet was made.  It has three functions now.  With a granite top it is part of the kitchen, a usable surface.  The doors and drawer are storage you can reach. The sides hold 20 bottles of wine.  You can use the entire cabinet for wine serving.  The granite top is unharmed by water, heat or alcohol.

Many of you woodworkers might have a workbench like mine.  My end vise has a single screw and rides on two pipe pieces.  It is a simple mechanism but when clamping anything on the corner of the vise the jaws won't remain parallel.  This idea came to me to help keep the jaws aligned when I'm using just the corner of the vise.

I made a stack of 1/4 x 2 x 3 inch pieces and used a carraige bolt and wing nut to secure them.  I then put the number of blocks in the opposite end of the vise that matches the thickness of the board I'm trying to clamp. 

  

 

Now the jaws of the vise are parallel and will hold the work solidly.

  



 

This is a creative idea for a wood push stick.  Take a wooden coat hanger and cut it in half and presto! you have two of them for price of one.  I've seen this type of stick being used to pull out oven trays, only only with a hook on the end instead of a notch.

This is a simple trick.  Anything to save your fingers.  Always use a solid push stick when working close to the blade.

Project, Torsion Box.....

The torsion box is a handy way to create a thick panel with the strength to span a large area.  Because the panel is mostly hollow, it also is very light.  It can also maintain its flatness and not flex under stress. 

The secret is in the core.  Everyone has seen the concept in the making of hollow core doors. The core is mostly made with cardboard and the doors don't really have to lay horizontally and support a lot of weight.  However, if you want to make a table or roof where strength is an issue, then try this idea and make a torsion box of your own.

The system requires three components, a core grid with a layer on top and a layer on the bottom.  Sounds simple and is.  In this project I used 1/2 in plywood for the grid with 1/4 ply for the top and bottom layers.  In the choice of materials, the factors of strength, length and lightness dictate. 

Make the grid by cutting long strips and then filling in the cross pieces with short cut-offs, or make continuous crossing strips and notch them to fit together, finger joint style.  Smaller grids make the panel heavier and larger grids are more open and make  a lighter panel.  Make the outside pieces of the whole frame, out of thicker material. 

 

The flat spots are where table legs will be added.

 

This torsion box, covered with stainless, makes a generous work station.

 

The central horizontal has to span a five foot wide TV and support the top cabinets.

 

 

Work on a solid, flat surface to attach the top with glue and screws. This will be the underside that won't be seen.  Using weight, (cement blocks, etc....) make sure of the flatness and let the glue dry.  Turn the whole thing over and add the bottom layer with glue and add weight to the top instead of screws.  Let the glue dry, sand the edges or add trim and you have a great table or whatever other use you have devised.

The two projects I've shown here are first a bakery table covered with stainless steel and secondly a cabinet for a huge TV.  Both utilize a torsion box for horizontal strength.

Push-stick tip #3

You can use this handy  push stick to quickly cut yards of moldings for any project.  First determine the lengths you need then cut wide pieces that you will need to cut strips from.  Take the wide pieces and rout or shape the molding contour on one or both edges.   Then with your handy dandy push stick you can safely cut off strips of molding as fast as you can rout them without having to change the table saw fence setting.

Some styles of moldings are round or irregular and the pusher might not make good contact.   The tip here is to take off the side of the push stick and make one thaat is thicker or thinner or just makes better contact.   Safety here comes at the end of the cut when the tendency is for the cut piece to twist or turn.  Good contact all through the cut is imperative.  It's worth the time it takes to do this for safety.  The idea that "I'm only going to make one or two pieces" can be the dangerous concept.

Super-safe table saw push stick #2

Super-safe table saw push stick #2

This push stick for the table saw is great because it prevents you from getting involved with the blade.  It is shown here being used with a newer saw with a wider fence.  As you can see all you need do is adjust the width to the dimensions of your particular fence.

The three different size side walls allow you to cut very thin strips.  You can use the pusher with the new guards and splitters in place for wider pieces.  The blade cover does prohibit cutting very thin slices.

Super-safe push stick for older table saws.

Super-safe table saw push stick.  #1

I am posting this idea for the sake of safety.  Many old table saws are still in use in cabinet shops today.  Being vintage, they don't come equipped with the newest safety features like riving knives and spreaders that prevent kick-back.  Also they lack the over the blade covers that keep your hands away from the blade.  Not everyone can or wants to upgrade their table saw's safety equipment, or buy a new saw.

I have come across a very simple idea to protect your fingers and maintain control in nearly all ripping operations on your table saw.  This push stick stradles the fence with a handle on top for control.  When you push a piece through the blade you have complete control and can't get close with your fingers.  Every saw owner can make one, even if you do have the latest model.

I have seen some woodworkers, trusting their experience, using their thumb to guide stock between the blade and the fence.  Some will hook their little finger over the fence
for better control.  This does improve your chances but  I don't want to take any chances!  I want to lower my odds of losing a finger to zero!  Have a look....

This simple "duck" push stick is like a seat belt, in that you will get used to using it.  It becomes second nature, a habit.  If anytime, this stick hits the blade you can replace it with a bright shiny new one and still order four beers with one hand.

Home office decor

Here is an office/ studio in Hatboro, PA.  It provids a space that is extremely functional and affords a pleasing atmosphere for an artist to work in.  The cabinets are plain sawn oak veneer with walnut pulls. Large drawers with full extention glides leave plenty of room for flat paper and artist supplies.

An artist friend had me create these cabinets for his home studio.  He ran a successful business as an illustrator with his drawing board and all necessary materials, organized and close at hand.  A special rolling cabinet was made for an overhead projector.